How Do I Choose the Right Jewelry? - Chain Types

The use of chain in jewelry design has always been an important element.  One of the most common uses of chain is as a foundation for holding a pendant.  From the single diamond to an intricately woven wire pendant, chain has graced the necks of many women and men throughout the ages.  In more recent years, chain has become more popular and has, as a result, taken on new dimensions.  Here are some samples of the types of chain available on the market.


Cable chain:  also known as link chain, this chain consists of the same size round or oval links. This is one of the most popular styles for displaying a pendant or gemstone.

Ball chain:  also known as bead chain, resembles round beads evenly spaced along a piece of chain with a small space in between each bead.


Rolo chain:  this chain consists of round links usually the same size and connected together.

Figaro chain:  this chain has flattened links of several sizes, laid out in a repeating pattern.  Usually the pattern is 2 or 3 short links then a longer link.

Curb chain:  also known as gourmette chain, this chain closely resembles cable chain, but the links are usually lying flat.

Chain comes in many metal finishes and colors.  Fine silver, sterling silver, gold and silver plate are the standbys. But newer types of metals and finishes are being used too.  As the price of silver and gold increased,  additional types of chain were created for use in jewelry making: silver filled, gold filled, nickel, aluminum, steel and rhodium.

The chain category also includes more elaborate chain types, often combining forms of chain with other elements. For example, cup chain  includes a crystal or pearl in a setting that has been attached to chain in the form of a link.
Silver silk capture chain consists of fine wire knitted around tiny ball chain, capturing the light that reflects off the ball chain and adding strength to the knitted wire.

iKandies Unique Custom Jewelry incorporates many different chain styles and colors into their custom jewelry pieces.  Below are two examples of how we do this.

 Hundreds of tiny copper plated leaves dangling from antique copper plated chain serve as the backdrop for pearls and Swarovski crystals in our Copper Pearly Waterfall Necklace.  


 In our Copper Leaf Necklace, large copper oval links joined together with smaller round links provide the chain base for a copper leaf and boro glass.

To see more ways that iKandies Unique Custom Jewelry uses chain in their necklaces, bracelets and earring designs, please visit our shop at Etsy or our website at www.ikandies.com.

iKandies Plays With Patinas

According to Merriam Webster's online dictionary, a patina is defined as "a thin usually green layer that forms naturally on the metals copper and bronze when they are exposed to the air for a long time".  iKandies LOVES that look, especially on copper.  But, who wants to wait for a result that may take "a long time" to develop?  And what if we want a surface color other than green? So, iKandies has found other ways to color our metal that do not involve the use of chemicals.

In this experiment, iKandies applied a micro torch to copper washers. In just a few minutes the washers glowed various colors of red and orange, and a few washers reached the purple stage.

 In this experiment, iKandies used a heat gun to apply steady heat to a piece of copper.  Light shades of orange and red began to appear.  But in order to achieve these colors, the torch had to be held steady, concentrating on one spot and for 5- 7 minutes.

In our final experiment, we buried copper, nickle and brass leaf shapes in crushed salt and vinegar potato chips to which a few tablespoons of white vinegar had been added.  After waiting about 1 hour shades of blue and green began to appear on the metals.  This picture shows the results of leaving the metal buried in the chips over night.



iKandies was very happy with the test results.  Here's the jewelry piece we created using the copper washers.  What do you think?

iKandies Adds Licorice to our Jewelry

Licorice?  Well, our name is "iKandies"!  But we don't mean licorice candy.  We're talking about Licorice leather or what is better known as "Regaliz" leather.  This is pronounced "reg-AH-leez" and has been all the rage in Europe.

The Regaliz bracelet component system consists of genuine Greek leather 6mm by 10mm in size and found in a variety of colors. High quality beads, caps and clasps in zinc and pewter are electro plated with 99.9% sterling silver.  Ceramic large hole beads and rubber rings add color and style options to each bracelet.  The nature of these bracelets make them appealing to both men and women.

Seen first at the 2012 Bead and Button Show, iKandies began noticing more and more bead supply stores offering these components.  So we tried our hand at making a woman's and a man's bracelet and here's the results:

Men's Regaliz Leather Bracelet

Women's Regaliz Flat Leather Bracelet

The Regaliz system includes ceramic beads, rubber rings and other pieces to adorn and finish your leather bracelet creation. We decided to create sterling silver metal slides for the Men's bracelet.  The sterling pieces were textured, annealed and then formed into slides that would fit on the leather cord.   For the woman's bracelet, we textured, annealed and oxidized a copper component to attach to two strands of flat Italian leather.  A Swarovski flat back crystal was glued to the copper piece, creating an eye catching focal point for this bracelet. 

We were able to attain quite a bit of leather from our supplier, Primative Earth Beads, so we'll be making more of these luscious bracelets!  Check out our website for these and other fine pieces of jewelry.

Finished Stamping Project

The stamping project referred to in iKandies last blog post has been finished!   We had just finished stamping the diamond shaped copper pendant and was preparing it for oxidation.  After dipping it into a bath of liver of sulfur, the pendant was polished  front and back to remove most of the oxidized affect.  The black coloring that was left enhanced the stamping design on the pendant.  For the next step  fine copper wire was laced through holes that were punched along the sides of the pendant.  The wire was woven in a random pattern back and forth along each edge, and Swarovski crystals, small Czech glass beads and copper disks were added to the wire during the weaving process. Several layers of wire and beads were added to fill in the design.




Finally, the neck of the pendant was rolled towards the back to form a bail so that it could be attached to an antique copper chain.  Here's the final result.  Not too bad for the first stamping project!

This was fun although we have to admit, it takes some practice to get the stamped design straight.  Our next project will tackle letter stamping.

iKandies Gets to Play With Hammers!

Recently, iKandies has been delving into the world of sheet metal and hammers.  A new book by Lisa Niven Kelly, "Stamped Metal Jewelry: Creative Techniques and Designs for Making Custom Jewelry" caught our eye because of the unique designs she had included that used stamping techniques.  We watched the DVD tutorial which outlined the steps needed to make clear stamped designs on metal.  She also included tips such as her "tilt n' tap" method of ensuring that a great impression is made on your metal.   Another helpful tip that she shared is lightly polishing the surface of the metal to be stamped.  This causes a reflection on the metal and it then becomes easier to see where to place your stamp.  This is a great help for lining up letters if you are stamping a word or phrase on your metal!

We checked our supplies and found some of the items we needed at Bead Fest Philadelphia and others online.  Beaducation, P. J. Tools and Fusion Beads are just a few of the places to find great stamps.  Not only will you see a variety of letter designs, but many design stamps representing shapes and images of people, animals and other items that will make your designs personal.

Aren't these the cutest stamps!

Next, we selected a project from Lisa's book:


We practiced stamping several designs, utilizing the "tilt n' tap" method.  It works great, by the way!

Then we started with our design:  cutting the copper sheet metal into a pendant shape, filing the edges, taping the shape to a bench block and filling the front with our chosen design.  Here's the project after stamping is complete and holes have been punched along the edges.  Now we're ready for wire wrapping the edge!  But first, we'll need to give the pendant and the wire a bath in Liver of Sulfur. This will give the piece an "antiqued" look.  Then the pendant and wire will be lightly polished to remove excess oxidation from the design and refine the "antiqued" look.

Silver Black can be used in place of Liver of Sulfur on sterling silver, brass and nickle.  It can be applied with a Q-tip just to the area to be darkened (the words stamped onto a charm, for example) for immediate results. A Pro Polish pad can be used to polish off excess black.

Please check back on this site for our continuation blog of this project as we oxidize, wire wrap the edge of the pendant, make the bail and attach the pendant to a chain.

We've been beading for over eight years and have always found it a challenge to find high quality supplies at a reasonable price.  We have yet to locate a decent online bead store directory, so many hours have been spent scouring websites for the products you just can't get at a local bead store. For example here's a picture of a recent purchase made from Rio Grande.  Due to our increased interest in copper sheet and copper wire, we decided to purchase larger quantities of both so that we would not run out in the middle of a project. By larger quantities, we mean 1# spools of copper wire in 14 through 20 gauges. We also purchased 2 sheets of 6" x 12" copper sheet.

iKandies has found that purchasing metals from a company like Rio Grande who specializes in this type of product results in higher quality and better prices.  Many online bead sites specialize in large amounts and varieties of gemstones, crystals, glass, and findings, and offer sheet metal and copper wire in smaller amounts ( 3" x 3" sheets or 10 to 20' wire coils).  Small pieces of metal or lengths of wire are fine for the occasional metal accent piece but these items come at a cost.  The price break you get buying in larger amounts really pays off. 

And if you're really interested in getting a "price break" on copper, hunt around for unused or left over copper wire from building sites.  The next photo shows the copper wire (about 26 gauge) iKandies inherited  from a do-it-yourself heating and air conditioning project done by a relative.  We have used this wire for many, many projects, including the wire wrapped Rivoli pendant necklace shown in the picture.

Copper sheet and wire are easy to work with and make beautiful jewelry pieces.  Pure copper can be textured, painted, enameled, oxidized, treated with a patina or torch fired with gorgeous colorful results. If you haven't worked with copper, branch out and try it for your next project.  You'll be pleasantly surprised with the results.

Back From Bead Fest - It was a success!

We just got back and iKandies wanted to share our experience at our first Interweave Bead Fest.  While much smaller than the Bead and Button Show in Milwaukee, it was still a large venue with much to enjoy.  Our first stop Friday afternoon was the Bead Expo in the Great Philadelphia Expo Center.  Over 300 vendors were represented selling  gemstones, chain, glass, crystal, pearls, metals, findings, and everything in between. A shopper would need several days to make the rounds to all the vendors....

Where do I start?

... So we tried to visit as many of them as we could.   We brought home a few new items ...

Gemstones

Crystals

SilverSilk

New Tools

We also took a few classes and here's one of the bracelets we made, "Wild Woman Bangle" taught by Debora Mauser.  It combines pure copper with brass, sterling silver, Swarovski cyrstals, and found objects such as nuts and bolts.

Our overall experience was great and we really had fun learning new skills.

Bead Fest Philadelphia

Bead Fest is a bead and jewelry show where jewelry designers at all levels of expertise enhance their skills or learn new skills from talented instructors.  Added to this is a Shopping Expo featuring hundreds of exhibitors displaying beads, gems, tools.. everything you need to design beautiful jewelry.  Bead Fest Philadelphia is the largest show of its kind on the East Coast with 170 workshops and 350 exhibitors.  No wonder iKandies is excited about attending this event!  

We recently began exploring the world of metal working at the Bead and Button Show in Milwaukee.  Here are a few pics of a Fold form bracelet that was constructed at that show:

Adding texture to copper piece

Getting ready to fire enamel to a copper piece

            For Bead Fest we decided to sign up for two of Debora Mauser's classes:

Squiggles Cold Connections

Wild Woman Bangles

We'll post the results of our classes when we return from the show!